Things to Do in Whittier and the Portage Valley Before Your Cruise
Pre-cruise activities near Whittier, Alaska. Portage Glacier, Prince William Sound kayaking, Begich Towers, and the case for spending time in Anchorage before your departure.
Whittier is one of the smallest and most unusual communities in North America, and the surrounding environment is some of the most dramatic on earth. Whether you're spending an evening in Whittier before embarkation, exploring the Portage Valley on the way in, or maximizing your time in the area, here's what to know and do.
An Honest Assessment of Whittier Town Itself
Let's be candid: Whittier as a tourist destination is an acquired taste. The town has no charming waterfront district, no vibrant restaurant scene, and no boutique shopping. What it has is raw, unvarnished Alaska authenticity, extraordinary mountain and fjord scenery in every direction, and one of the most architecturally unusual settlements in the United States. Approach Whittier with realistic expectations and curiosity rather than expecting a polished destination experience.
The Begich Towers—the enormous 14-story concrete building that houses most of the town's population and services—is genuinely fascinating from a social and architectural perspective. The concept of an entire community living in a single building is unusual enough that Begich Towers has been featured in documentaries about unique American communities. If you're in Whittier overnight, walk around the building, read the informational plaques, and appreciate the unusual experiment in community living it represents.
The Whittier Waterfront and Small Boat Harbor
The small boat harbor is the heart of Whittier's active life. Fishing boats, charter vessels, and kayaks share the dock space, and the harbor is backed by steep, glacier-carved peaks that drop almost directly into the water. Even simply standing at the harbor and taking in the scenery is an extraordinary experience. Passage Canal, the fjord on which Whittier sits, is narrow, deep, and flanked by mountains that rise thousands of feet within short horizontal distance. On clear days (and despite Whittier's reputation for rain, clear days do occur), the views are breathtaking. On misty days, there's an atmospheric quality to the scene that is beautiful in its own way.
Prince William Sound Kayaking: World-Class Paddling
Prince William Sound is regarded as one of the finest sea kayaking environments in the world. The combination of protected fjords, tidewater glaciers, abundant wildlife, and spectacular mountain backdrops creates paddling conditions that attract serious kayakers from around the globe. For cruise passengers, guided kayak tours of varying durations depart from Whittier's harbor. Half-day tours accessible to beginners take you into the fjord, through small island passages, and into areas where you might encounter sea otters, harbor seals, Dall's porpoise, and abundant seabirds. Experienced paddlers can access multi-day routes through the Sound that are genuinely epic.
If you're arriving the afternoon before your cruise, a two-hour evening kayak tour on Passage Canal offers extraordinary value—the fjord scenery and wildlife viewing from water level in the evening light is an experience that stays with you. Book in advance through one of the Whittier-based outfitters.
Glacier Wildlife Cruises from Whittier
Charter boat tours departing from Whittier visit Columbia Glacier (one of the largest and most active tidewater glaciers in Alaska), Harriman Fjord, and other spectacular Prince William Sound locations. These tours offer opportunities to see glacial calving events (when large chunks of ice break off the glacier face and crash into the water), along with stellar wildlife viewing: sea otters are abundant in Prince William Sound, humpback and orca whales are seasonal visitors, Steller sea lions haul out on rocky islands, and the birding is exceptional. Half-day and full-day tours are available from multiple operators. If you're arriving a day early and can fit in a full-day glacier tour, it's worth doing—it previews the type of scenery your cruise will showcase but in a more intimate setting.
Portage Valley: A World-Class Detour on the Way to Whittier
The drive from Anchorage to the tunnel passes through the Portage Valley, a stunning glacial valley with the Chugach Mountains rising on both sides and the distinctive terrain of an area shaped by glacial retreat over centuries. Several worthwhile stops are available:
Begich, Boggs Visitor Center at Portage Lake is run by the U.S. Forest Service and features excellent exhibits on the Chugach National Forest, glacial geology, and Alaska ecology. From the visitor center, you can view Portage Glacier across the lake—the glacier has retreated dramatically over the past 50 years and is no longer visible from the road as it once was, but it remains an impressive feature. Small icebergs calved from the glacier float in Portage Lake year-round. Entry is free; exhibits are well-done and informative.
Glacier cruises on Portage Lake bring you up close to Portage Glacier by small boat (weather permitting). These short, inexpensive tours depart seasonally from near the visitor center and provide a close-up perspective on glacial ice that most visitors don't experience.
Anchorage: The Best Base for Pre-Cruise Activities
For most travelers, the richest pre-cruise experience comes from spending one or two days in Anchorage before heading to Whittier. Anchorage offers the Anchorage Museum (one of the finest regional museums in North America, covering Alaska history, art, and indigenous cultures), the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail (a remarkable 11-mile paved trail along Cook Inlet with views of Denali on clear days), the Flattop Mountain hike (spectacular views from a moderate summit above the city), the Alaska Native Heritage Center, excellent dining, and the overall experience of Alaska's largest city. Even a single day in Anchorage adds substantial richness to an Alaska cruise vacation, and most travelers don't regret the extra day.
Dining in Whittier
Whittier's dining options are limited but functional. A small number of cafes and seasonal restaurants near the harbor serve Alaska staples—burgers, fish and chips, chowder—at modest prices. Don't expect fine dining, but don't expect to go hungry either. If you want a memorable dinner before your cruise, a pre-Whittier meal in Anchorage (with its genuinely excellent restaurant scene) is the better option. For a late breakfast or casual lunch on embarkation day, Whittier's harbor-area establishments work fine.
Practical Pre-Cruise Tips for Whittier
Dress for rain regardless of the forecast—Whittier's precipitation is real and frequent. Waterproof boots are worth wearing or packing in your day bag for any outdoor exploration. Book kayak tours and boat trips in advance, especially for July and August. Give yourself extra time in Portage Valley if you're stopping at the visitor center—it's easy to spend an hour there. And remember: the tunnel operates on a schedule. Know your target opening time and leave the valley with enough time to catch it.
The journey to Whittier is part of the Alaska experience, and Ben's Travel helps clients make the most of every mile. From Anchorage hotel recommendations to Portage Valley stops, tunnel timing, and wildlife tour bookings in Whittier, we coordinate all the details. Contact Ben's Travel to plan your complete Alaska adventure.
